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{"id":2770,"date":"2017-10-11T06:27:27","date_gmt":"2017-10-11T04:27:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/?p=2770"},"modified":"2017-09-27T03:28:53","modified_gmt":"2017-09-27T01:28:53","slug":"entree-en-chine-le-xinjiang","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/2017\/10\/11\/entree-en-chine-le-xinjiang\/","title":{"rendered":"Entr\u00e9e en Chine : Le Xinjiang"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>On a le plaisir d&rsquo;\u00e9crire notre premier article chinois, ce qui n&rsquo;aurait pas \u00e9t\u00e9 possible sans l&rsquo;aide pr\u00e9cieuse de notre famille et nos amis qui se reconna\u00eetront et qu&rsquo;on remercie.<\/p>\n<p>Excit\u00e9s \u00e0 l&rsquo;id\u00e9e d&rsquo;arriver en Chine et de changer de culture apr\u00e8s 3 mois d&rsquo;Asie centrale, nous sommes transport\u00e9s par nos deux chauffeurs ou\u00efgours de la fronti\u00e8re kirghize \u00e0 Kashgar. Et oui, nous ne pouvons pas profiter de la descente du col de Torugart (3700m), car il est interdit de p\u00e9daler.<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>L&rsquo;ambiance est joviale, au fil de la discussion, on per\u00e7oit d\u00e9j\u00e0 quelques contradictions entre la volont\u00e9 du gouvernement chinois d&rsquo;unifier le pays et la culture ou\u00efgoure. Les Ou\u00efgours, \u00e9thnie musulmane, repr\u00e9sentaient il y a quelques ann\u00e9es 90% de la population au Xinjiang. Ils n&rsquo;en sont plus que 50%. Le gouvernement voulant diluer la culture locale, a favoris\u00e9 l&rsquo;immigration des Hans dans la r\u00e9gion (\u00e9thnie majoritaire en Chine, 92% de la population), ce qui a exacerb\u00e9 les tensions ethniques.<\/p>\n<p>A Kashgar, \u00e9tape importante de la route de la Soie, on se laisse \u00e9merveiller par cette ville vivante qui respire l&rsquo;Asie centrale avec des touches chinoises. Kashgar est plus proche de T\u00e9h\u00e9ran que de P\u00e9kin.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-2770 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8900\/'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8900-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2859\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2859'>\n\t\t\t\tBoulangerie du centre ancien de Kashgar\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8932\/'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8932-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2862\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2862'>\n\t\t\t\tParc du peuple, Kashgar\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8924\/'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8924-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2861\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2861'>\n\t\t\t\tMarch\u00e9 aux bestiaux, Kashgar\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Les rues et les march\u00e9s fourmillent. Dans les parcs, les gens se r\u00e9unissent pour danser, jouer aux cartes, au go, au badminton. Ca fait plaisir \u00e0 voir !<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-2770 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/img_20170812_095525\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/IMG_20170812_095525-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-2930\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-2930'>\n\t\t\t\tDanse ouigoure dans le parc du peuple \u00e0 Kashgar\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/img_20170812_095559\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/IMG_20170812_095559-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-2931\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-2931'>\n\t\t\t\tBadminton en plein air \u00e0 Kashgar\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8870\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8870-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-2858\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-2858'>\n\t\t\t\tKashgar\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8867\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8867-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-2857\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-2857'>\n\t\t\t\tKashgar\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01806\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01806-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-2876\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-2876'>\n\t\t\t\tPr\u00e9paration des nouilles fraiches au grand bazar de Kashgar\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Le march\u00e9 de nuit semble ancr\u00e9 dans le quotidien des locaux qui viennent d\u00e9guster nouilles, fondue chinoise, oeufs sous toutes les formes, desserts au riz&#8230; Le mix des cultures offre une multitude de saveurs culinaires et des plats plus relev\u00e9s.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-3' class='gallery galleryid-2770 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8864\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8864-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-3-2856\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-3-2856'>\n\t\t\t\tMarch\u00e9 de nuit de Kashgar\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8861\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8861-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-3-2855\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-3-2855'>\n\t\t\t\tMarch\u00e9 de nuit de Kashgar\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01942\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01942-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-3-2852\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-3-2852'>\n\t\t\t\tMarch\u00e9 de nuit de Turpan\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Quelques d\u00e9tails nous interpellent : La pr\u00e9sence polici\u00e8re tr\u00e8s importante, les d\u00e9tecteurs \u00e0 rayons X \u00e0 l&rsquo;entr\u00e9e des restaurants, march\u00e9s, parcs, etc.., les couteaux des stands du march\u00e9 de nuit encha\u00een\u00e9s, la vieille ville partiellement d\u00e9truite et remplac\u00e9e par des \u00e9difices gigantesques.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-4' class='gallery galleryid-2770 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8859\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8859-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-4-2854\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-4-2854'>\n\t\t\t\tMarch\u00e9 de nuit de Kashgar\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8853\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8853-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8904\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8904-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-4-2860\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-4-2860'>\n\t\t\t\tVieille ville de Kashgar pr\u00e8s du lac Donghu\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>On prend alors la route vers la fronti\u00e8re pakistanaise avec une grosse pens\u00e9e \u00e0 Roro qui aurait d\u00fb traverser cette splendide r\u00e9gion dont les paysages nous laissent bouches b\u00e9es. Entour\u00e9s de majestueuses montagnes qui culminent \u00e0 plus de 7000 m (entre autres les pics Kongur Shan et Mustagata) les yacks et les chameaux paturent paisiblement. Aux derni\u00e8res nouvelles Roro est en forme! Il a roul\u00e9 au Tadjikistan sur la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre Pamir Highway qui lui en a mis plein les yeux. Il devrait d\u00e9j\u00e0 maintenant avoir fil\u00e9 vers l&rsquo;Inde en avion.<\/p>\n<p>Rejoints par un coll\u00e8gue bulgare, Ivan, on descend de 4000 m d&rsquo;altitude aux petits villages \u00e0 l&rsquo;or\u00e9e du d\u00e9sert du Taklamakan.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-5' class='gallery galleryid-2770 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8934\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8934-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-2863\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-2863'>\n\t\t\t\tLac de Karak\u00f6l\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8950\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8950-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-2864\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-2864'>\n\t\t\t\tRoute du Karakoram\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8956\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8956-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-2865\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-2865'>\n\t\t\t\tRoute du Karakoram\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01874\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01874-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-2884\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-2884'>\n\t\t\t\tRoute du Karakoram\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01838\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01838-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-2882\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-2882'>\n\t\t\t\tLac de Karak\u00f6l\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01880\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01880-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-2885\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-2885'>\n\t\t\t\tRoute du Karakoram\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01816\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01816-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-2880\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-2880'>\n\t\t\t\tRoute du Karakoram\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01826\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01826-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-2881\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-2881'>\n\t\t\t\tRoute du Karakoram\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>C&rsquo;est alors que l&rsquo;oppression chinoise nous saute aux yeux : nombreux contr\u00f4les de police (avec reconnaissances de visages pour les Chinois), barbel\u00e9s autour des espaces publics (\u00e9coles, mosqu\u00e9es, parcs, h\u00f4pitaux, march\u00e9s, stations service&#8230;), interdiction de camper, interdiction d&rsquo;inviter les \u00e9trangers, des programmes radio qui r\u00e9sonnent dans les hauts parleurs des petites villes, comme s&rsquo;il s&rsquo;agissait de la propagande chinoise. Ces mesures ont \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9cemment mises en place suite notamment aux manifestations et attentats de 2008 \u00e0 2014 revendiquant la reconnaissance de la culture ou\u00efgoure.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-6' class='gallery galleryid-2770 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_9011\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_9011-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-6-2871\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-6-2871'>\n\t\t\t\tBarbel\u00e9s devant l&rsquo;\u00e9cole \u00e0 Turpan\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8962\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8962-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-6-2866\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-6-2866'>\n\t\t\t\tMosqu\u00e9e dans le country d&rsquo;Ak-too, bien prot\u00e9g\u00e9e&#8230;\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01890\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01890-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-6-2889\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-6-2889'>\n\t\t\t\tLes infrastructures d\u00e9truisent la vieille ville de Yarkand\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Un soir, alors que nous campions, Ben \u00e9tant malade, un des innombrables hommes au brassard rouge nous d\u00e9nonce \u00e0 la police. A la tomb\u00e9e de la nuit, la police nous somme d&rsquo;aller \u00e0 30 km de l\u00e0 dans un h\u00f4tel. Des curieux du village nous regardent ranger nos affaires. Certains nous disent en off qu&rsquo;ils aimeraient nous inviter mais ne peuvent pas. Une \u00e9tudiante ouigoure nous dit qu&rsquo;elle n&rsquo;aime plus sa r\u00e9gion et qu&rsquo;elle pr\u00e9f\u00e8re le Sichuan o\u00f9 elle \u00e9tudie car elle s&rsquo;y sent plus libre . Toujours bienveillants mais devant appliquer les r\u00e8gles, les policiers nous transportent \u00e0 minuit dans le canton voisin pour finalement nous dire de dormir dans un local de distributeur automatique de billets, les h\u00f4tels \u00e9tant complets. D&rsquo;autres policiers du canton concern\u00e9 nous emm\u00e8nent dormir dans le hall d&rsquo;un h\u00f4tel. Apr\u00e8s une courte nuit, nous sommes en selle \u00e0 7h du matin. A midi, nous n&rsquo;avons fait que 20 km \u00e0 cause de 7 contr\u00f4les de police, dont un particuli\u00e8rement cocasse. Un fourgon nous d\u00e9passe \u00e0 pleine vitesse, se rabat et 6 policiers casqu\u00e9s sortent et nous arr\u00eatent derri\u00e8re leurs boucliers. Passerport ! Appel \u00e0 la \u00ab\u00a0Haute Autorit\u00e9\u00a0\u00bb pour \u00ab\u00a0checker notre identit\u00e9\u00a0\u00bb.<\/p>\n<p>Le dernier contr\u00f4le se solde par une invitation \u00e0 manger par la police. La polici\u00e8re ou\u00efgoure, brillante, nous confie : \u00ab\u00a0Je vous envie car vous vivez vos r\u00eaves. Mon r\u00eave est de vivre en paix. Nous vivons dans un pays en paix, d&rsquo;autant plus depuis la mise en place des contr\u00f4les de police, mais nous devons nous prot\u00e9ger du monde ext\u00e9rieur qui ne vit pas en paix. Le Xinjiang est particuli\u00e8rement contr\u00f4l\u00e9 car cette r\u00e9gion est frontali\u00e8re de 8 pays\u00a0\u00bb. Ses paroles r\u00e9sonnent en nous comme de la propagande, cela marche bien.. Elle nous explique que les hommes avec des brassards ou des pin&rsquo;s rouges (marteau-faucille) sont des \u00ab\u00a0soutiens de la police\u00a0\u00bb. \u00ab\u00a0Pay\u00e9s ou non, ils sont l\u00e0 pour servir le pays\u00a0\u00bb, et semblent indiquer le moindre faux pas.<\/p>\n<p>D\u00e9\u00e7us de ne pas pouvoir rencontrer la population et voyager librement, on d\u00e9cide de filer en stop-camion vers Hotan.<\/p>\n<p>C&rsquo;est l\u00e0 que les contr\u00f4les de police nous ont \u00e9t\u00e9 bien utiles pour rattraper les blonderies de Mara, qui oublie dans la fourgonette sa sacoche contenant entre autres passeport, argent et carte bancaire! Les Chinois mettent sur le coup un agent de la police criminelle pour la rechercher. Apr\u00e8s un autre repas offert et un passage \u00e0 visionner les vid\u00e9os de surveillance des postes de contr\u00f4le, l&rsquo;enqu\u00eate est r\u00e9solue en 5 heures ! Ouf, le voyage peut continuer !<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-7' class='gallery galleryid-2770 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01886\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01886-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-7-2888\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-7-2888'>\n\t\t\t\tBen se r\u00e9gale du repas de la police\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01884\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01884-e1504677639216-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-7-2887\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-7-2887'>\n\t\t\t\tMao accompagne toujours notre chauffeur de stop\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>A Hotan, contre toute attente, nous n&rsquo;arrivons pas \u00e0 trouver le vieux centre et d\u00e9couvrons une ville nouvelle, avec une architecture totalement chinoise. Soit nous sommes pass\u00e9s \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de quelque chose, soit le gouvernement chinois \u00e0 r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 y \u00e9liminer les traces de la culture ou\u00efgoure.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2848\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2848\" style=\"width: 5184px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2848\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01896.jpg\" alt=\"DSC01896\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01896.jpg 5184w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01896-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01896-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01896-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01896-360x270.jpg 360w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2848\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Mao sert la main de Kurban Tulum, un Ouigour, symbole de l&rsquo;unit\u00e9, place de la solidarit\u00e9 d&rsquo;Hotan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Nous traversons ensuite en bus le d\u00e9sert du Taklamakan, 1300 km en 30h, pour cause de contr\u00f4les de police.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-8' class='gallery galleryid-2770 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01924\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01924-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-8-2849\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-8-2849'>\n\t\t\t\tDunes de sable dans le d\u00e9sert du Taklamakan\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01933\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01933-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-8-2850\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-8-2850'>\n\t\t\t\tBivouac dans le d\u00e9sert du Taklamakan\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>On p\u00e9dale \u00e0 150 m sous le niveau de la mer pour rejoindre l&rsquo;oasis de Turpan qui nous surprend tr\u00e8s agr\u00e9ablement. Beaucoup moins de contr\u00f4les, on se sent plus libre et d\u00e9couvre avec \u00e9merveillement la cit\u00e9 creus\u00e9e dans la roche de Jiaohe, leur fa\u00e7on de faire s\u00e9cher les raisins et leurs vignes qui prot\u00e8gent du soleil pour la r\u00e9colte, leur astucieux syst\u00e8me d&rsquo;irrigation sous-terrain provenant des montagnes du Tian Shan \u00e0 des dizaines de km, leurs d\u00e9licieux melons croquants, juteux et sucr\u00e9s.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-9' class='gallery galleryid-2770 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_9008\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_9008-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-9-2870\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-9-2870'>\n\t\t\t\tVestiges de Jiaohe\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8996\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8996-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-9-2868\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-9-2868'>\n\t\t\t\tVestiges de Jiaohe\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_9013\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_9013-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-9-2873\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-9-2873'>\n\t\t\t\tTurpan\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_9017\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_9017-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-9-2875\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-9-2875'>\n\t\t\t\tJoueurs de go, Turpan\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc01941\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01941-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-9-2851\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-9-2851'>\n\t\t\t\tLes raisins s\u00e8chent \u00e0 Turpan\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_8984\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC_8984-e1504677814318-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-9-2867\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-9-2867'>\n\t\t\t\tMosqu\u00e9e \u00e0 Turpan\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Notre dernier stop camion pour sortir de la r\u00e9gion est repr\u00e9sentatif. Deux Ou\u00efgours de l&rsquo;ouest du Xinjiang s&rsquo;arr\u00eatent pour nous prendre mais h\u00e9sitent longuement, par peur des contr\u00f4les de police. Gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 l&rsquo;aide de deux jeunes qui parlent anglais et sont ravis de nous aider, les chauffeurs sont rassur\u00e9s. Finalement le voyage se d\u00e9roule dans l&rsquo;\u00e9change et la simplicit\u00e9.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2847\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2847\" style=\"width: 5184px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2847\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01893.jpg\" alt=\"DSC01893\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01893.jpg 5184w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01893-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01893-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01893-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01893-360x270.jpg 360w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2847\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Couple ouigour \u00e0 Hotan<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>En somme cette r\u00e9gion nous a enchant\u00e9s par sa beaut\u00e9 mais nous en sortons avec un sentiment d&rsquo;inachev\u00e9, comme si on n&rsquo;avait pas pu en d\u00e9couvrir la r\u00e9elle richesse.<\/p>\n<p>On a pu percevoir la g\u00e9n\u00e9rosit\u00e9 des Ou\u00efgours par des gestes simples comme des sourires et le don de fruits sur la route, mais le syst\u00e8me semble \u00f4ter une certaine spontan\u00e9it\u00e9 \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9change humain, ce que nous regrettons particuli\u00e8rement.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>On a le plaisir d&rsquo;\u00e9crire notre premier article chinois, ce qui n&rsquo;aurait pas \u00e9t\u00e9 possible sans l&rsquo;aide pr\u00e9cieuse de notre famille et nos amis qui se reconna\u00eetront et qu&rsquo;on remercie. Excit\u00e9s \u00e0 l&rsquo;id\u00e9e d&rsquo;arriver en Chine et de changer de culture apr\u00e8s 3 mois d&rsquo;Asie centrale, nous sommes transport\u00e9s par nos deux chauffeurs ou\u00efgours de la fronti\u00e8re kirghize \u00e0 Kashgar. Et oui, nous ne pouvons pas profiter de la descente du col de Torugart (3700m), car il est interdit de&#8230;<\/p>\n<p class=\"read-more\"><a class=\"btn btn-default\" href=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/2017\/10\/11\/entree-en-chine-le-xinjiang\/\">Lire la suite<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> Lire la suite<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":2883,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,40,6],"tags":[22],"class_list":["post-2770","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-actu","category-chine","category-en-bref-in","tag-mara-ben"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC01864.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"post_mailing_queue_ids":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2770","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2770"}],"version-history":[{"count":86,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2770\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3143,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2770\/revisions\/3143"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2883"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2770"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2770"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2770"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}