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{"id":2764,"date":"2017-05-25T10:33:07","date_gmt":"2017-05-25T08:33:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/?p=2764"},"modified":"2017-12-28T20:30:28","modified_gmt":"2017-12-28T19:30:28","slug":"le-nord-est-de-liran","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/2017\/05\/25\/le-nord-est-de-liran\/","title":{"rendered":"Le Nord-Est de l&rsquo;Iran"},"content":{"rendered":"<p># Flash back de Ben et Roro: mi-mai 2017<\/p>\n<p>Apr\u00e8s un petit tour dans le sud de l&rsquo;Iran, nous reprenons notre route vers l&rsquo;Est \u00e0 partir de T\u00e9h\u00e9ran en esp\u00e9rant r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer notre visa turkm\u00e8ne \u00e0 Mashhad.<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Fini le plat, on grimpe \u00e0 nouveau les montagnes de l&rsquo;Albrouz, o\u00f9 l&rsquo;on appr\u00e9cie un bivouac le long du lac de Latyan Dan et le passage d&rsquo;un \u00a0col \u00e0 plus de 3000 m. L&rsquo;imposant Mont Damavand (5697m) nous appara\u00eet soudainement dans la descente des gorges en direction d&rsquo;Amol,\u00a0 tout comme l&rsquo;avait fait son petit fr\u00e8re le Mont Ararat, quelques semaines plus t\u00f4t en Turquie.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-2764 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00601\/'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00601-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2835\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2835'>\n\t\t\t\tCoucher de soleil sur le lac\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00603\/'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00603-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2836\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2836'>\n\t\t\t\tBivouac le long du lac\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00598\/'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00598-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2845\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2845'>\n\t\t\t\tCheck up des v\u00e9los avant de repartir\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-2764 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/olympus-digital-camera-59\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/P1012026-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-2831\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-2831'>\n\t\t\t\tLe mont Damavand\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00611\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00611-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-2837\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-2837'>\n\t\t\t\tVillage au pied du Damavand\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00614\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00614-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-2-2838\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-2-2838'>\n\t\t\t\tGorge en descendant sur Amol\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Au bord de la mer Caspienne, on retrouve les grandes \u00e9tendues vertes des plantations de riz, que l&rsquo;on repique \u00e0 cette \u00e9poque. On p\u00e9dale avec plaisir dans ces d\u00e9cors, d&rsquo;autant que l&rsquo;on rencontre chez Rousbeh (formidable h\u00f4te warmshower), quatre cyclistes francais dont nos comp\u00e8res Isaure et Tchouka avec qui on avait d\u00e9j\u00e0 roul\u00e9 en Arm\u00e9nie.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2832\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2832\" style=\"width: 4608px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2832\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/P1012028.jpg\" alt=\"OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA\" width=\"4608\" height=\"3456\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/P1012028.jpg 4608w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/P1012028-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/P1012028-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/P1012028-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/P1012028-360x270.jpg 360w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 4608px) 100vw, 4608px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2832\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Le riz est repiqu\u00e9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div id='gallery-3' class='gallery galleryid-2764 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00623\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00623-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-3-2841\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-3-2841'>\n\t\t\t\tR\u00e9union de cyclistes!\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00619\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00619-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-3-2840\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-3-2840'>\n\t\t\t\tLes champs de riz\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00636\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00636-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-3-2846\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-3-2846'>\n\t\t\t\tL&rsquo;oiseau bleu qui nous suit\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>L&rsquo;accueil et la curiosit\u00e9 sont vraiment ancr\u00e9s dans la culture iranienne: pour preuve, lors d&rsquo;un pique nique, de jeunes iraniens de 12 \u00e0 14 ans viennent nous parler et nous prendre en photo. Soudainement, l&rsquo;un part en courant et revient avec 2 glaces qu&rsquo;il nous offre.\u00a0 Ca contraste avec notre \u00e9ducation fran\u00e7aise et aux phrases du type \u00ab\u00a0Ne parle pas aux inconnus&#8230;\u00a0\u00bb!<\/p>\n<p>En Iran, les r\u00e8gles de galanterie se nomme \u00ab\u00a0Taarof\u00a0\u00bb.\u00a0 Elles r\u00e9gissent aussi les r\u00e8gles d&rsquo;hospitalit\u00e9: un h\u00f4te va proposer \u00e0 son invit\u00e9 tout ce qu&rsquo;il est susceptible de d\u00e9sirer. L&rsquo;invit\u00e9 se doit de refuser plusieurs fois afin de savoir s&rsquo;il s&rsquo;agit juste de politesse ou d&rsquo;une r\u00e9elle offre. De m\u00eame pour un vendeur qui va dire \u00ab\u00a0vous en me devez rien\u00a0\u00bb&#8230;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2839\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2839\" style=\"width: 5184px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2839\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00615.jpg\" alt=\"DSC00615\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00615.jpg 5184w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00615-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00615-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00615-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00615-360x270.jpg 360w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2839\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nos jeunes offreurs de glace<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Il y a deux vies compl\u00e9tement diff\u00e9rentes en Iran, entre la vie \u00e0 l&rsquo;ext\u00e9rieur et la vie chez soi, \u00e0 l&rsquo;abri des regards. Hormis dans les parcs, les Iraniens vivent beaucoup \u00e0 l&rsquo;int\u00e9rieur derri\u00e8re de nombreux rideaux (souvent trois, plus ou moins \u00e9pais).<\/p>\n<p>A Mashhad, nos h\u00f4tes nous convient \u00e0 une soir\u00e9e d&rsquo;anniversaire: une fois arriv\u00e9s dans la maison, fini les foulards et longues robes. Place aux (mini) jupes, talons et \u00e0 l&rsquo;alcool qui coule \u00e0 flots. La maxime \u00ab\u00a0Pour vivre heureux, vivons cach\u00e9s\u00a0\u00bb, s&rsquo;applique particuli\u00e8rement bien \u00e0 l&rsquo;Iran. Lors de la soir\u00e9e, les d\u00e9bats s&rsquo;animent autour de la politique et le vote de Rohani: pour certains, il est beaucoup trop conservateur (malgr\u00e9 qu&rsquo;il soit le moins conservateur de tous les candidats), et pour d&rsquo;autres, il permet au pays de s&rsquo;ouvrir lentement mais s\u00fbrement. Cependant, beaucoup d&rsquo;entre eux (et plus particuli\u00e8rement les femmes) nous indiquent qu&rsquo;ils aimeraient \u00e9migrer en Europe ou Am\u00e9rique du Nord pour avoir plus de libert\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p>Apr\u00e8s avoir long\u00e9 la mer Caspienne, un peu avant Mashhad, on entre dans la r\u00e9gion turkm\u00e8ne de l&rsquo;Iran. En quelques kilom\u00e8tres, on retrouve des \u00e9lements de la culture turque, comme la langue, les v\u00eatements color\u00e9s, les gens se retrouvant dehors en groupe&#8230; Les paysages aussi changent: des champs de bl\u00e9 apparaissent avec son lot de dromadaires, puis les collines grandissent peu \u00e0 peu.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2843\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00628.jpg\" alt=\"DSC00628\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00628.jpg 5184w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00628-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00628-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00628-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00628-360x270.jpg 360w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><\/p>\n<div id='gallery-4' class='gallery galleryid-2764 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00641\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00641-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-4-2823\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-4-2823'>\n\t\t\t\tDes turkm\u00e8nes du nord de l&rsquo;Iran\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/olympus-digital-camera-61\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/P1012030-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-4-2833\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-4-2833'>\n\t\t\t\tChamps de bl\u00e9\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/olympus-digital-camera-62\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/P1012035-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-4-2834\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-4-2834'>\n\t\t\t\tLes colines apparaissent\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<figure id=\"attachment_2842\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2842\" style=\"width: 5184px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2842\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00626.jpg\" alt=\"DSC00626\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00626.jpg 5184w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00626-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00626-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00626-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00626-360x270.jpg 360w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2842\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Course poursuite avec les enfants<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>A Gombad-e-Kavus, un cycliste iranien nous invite \u00e0 visiter sa ville et pour la nuit. Pendant la soir\u00e9e, pendant laquelle il nous indique les petites routes pour la suite du voyage, il nous montre l&rsquo;anc\u00eatre du site Warmshower: le journal \u00ab\u00a0cyclo accueille cyclo\u00a0\u00bb qu&rsquo;il utilisait en France dans les ann\u00e9es 80 et recensait les adresses des h\u00f4tes.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-5' class='gallery galleryid-2764 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00637\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00637-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-2822\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-2822'>\n\t\t\t\tCyclo accueil cyclo\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00650\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00650-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-2826\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-2826'>\n\t\t\t\tFini les champs de riz, place au bl\u00e9\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/img-20170908-wa0005\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/IMG-20170908-WA0005-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-3106\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-3106'>\n\t\t\t\tLa tour de Gomba e Kavus\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00648\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00648-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-5-2825\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-5-2825'>\n\t\t\t\tLa lumi\u00e8re du soir\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Apr\u00e8s le passage \u00e0 Mashhad, cette ville conservatrice, o\u00f9 se trouve la tombe de l&rsquo;Imam Reza (8e Imam), une fois le visa en poche, on file rejoindre la fronti\u00e8re turkm\u00e8ne. Les collines vertes ont disparu et nous entrons dans le d\u00e9but du vaste d\u00e9sert du Karakoum.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-6' class='gallery galleryid-2764 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00664\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00664-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-6-2828\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-6-2828'>\n\t\t\t\tMashhad\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00656\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00656-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-6-2827\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-6-2827'>\n\t\t\t\tBivouac dans l&rsquo;entr\u00e9e du d\u00e9sert du Karakoum\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc00668\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00668-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-6-2829\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-6-2829'>\n\t\t\t\tEntr\u00e9e dans le d\u00e9sert du Karakoum\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>A Sarracks, derni\u00e8re ville Iranienne de notre trajet, on d\u00e9cide d&rsquo;offir une glace \u00e0 un enfant, qui nous aidait \u00e0 trouver une boulangerie, avec nos derniers Rials. Un petit geste de remerciement pour ce pays qui nous a tant offert.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2830\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2830\" style=\"width: 5184px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2830\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00671.jpg\" alt=\"DSC00671\" width=\"5184\" height=\"3888\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00671.jpg 5184w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00671-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00671-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00671-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00671-360x270.jpg 360w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 5184px) 100vw, 5184px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2830\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Merci l&rsquo;Iran!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p># Flash back de Ben et Roro: mi-mai 2017 Apr\u00e8s un petit tour dans le sud de l&rsquo;Iran, nous reprenons notre route vers l&rsquo;Est \u00e0 partir de T\u00e9h\u00e9ran en esp\u00e9rant r\u00e9cup\u00e9rer notre visa turkm\u00e8ne \u00e0 Mashhad.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2844,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,6,28],"tags":[20,35],"class_list":["post-2764","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-actu","category-en-bref-in","category-iran","tag-ben","tag-roro"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/DSC00632.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"post_mailing_queue_ids":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2764","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2764"}],"version-history":[{"count":59,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2764\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3134,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2764\/revisions\/3134"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2844"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2764"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2764"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2764"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}