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{"id":1026,"date":"2017-04-22T07:22:11","date_gmt":"2017-04-22T05:22:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/?p=1026"},"modified":"2017-12-29T22:52:47","modified_gmt":"2017-12-29T21:52:47","slug":"%d5%b0%d5%a1%d5%b5%d5%a1%d5%bd%d5%bf%d5%a1%d5%b6-armenie-yerku-kuir-hayastan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/2017\/04\/22\/%d5%b0%d5%a1%d5%b5%d5%a1%d5%bd%d5%bf%d5%a1%d5%b6-armenie-yerku-kuir-hayastan\/","title":{"rendered":"\u0540\u0561\u0575\u0561\u057d\u057f\u0561\u0576 (Arm\u00e9nie) &#8211; Yerku Kuir Hayastan"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Apr\u00e8s un au revoir \u00e9mouvant, je laisse les parents \u00e0 T\u00e9h\u00e9ran pour un d\u00e9part en bus direction Yerevan. 25 h de voyage, le v\u00e9lo rentre en soute moyennant une petite n\u00e9gociation de prix\/bakchich avec le chauffeur (bien aid\u00e9e par des Arm\u00e9niens qui ont le sens du commerce !).<br \/>\n<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>On passe \u00e0 fronti\u00e8re entre 1h et 4h du matin, le temps que le bus soit fouill\u00e9 de fond en comble et que les bagages soient pass\u00e9s aux rayons X. Entre les deux fronti\u00e8res, j&rsquo;enl\u00e8ve mon voile et le vent sur mes cheveux me procure une douce sensation de libert\u00e9. En Arm\u00e9nie le contr\u00f4le dure deux fois moins de temps et nous pouvons enfin reprendre la route.<\/p>\n<p>Au lever du jour je me r\u00e9veille et m&rsquo;\u00e9merveille de la beaut\u00e9 des montagnes que Roro et Ben ont d\u00fb gravir \u00e0 contresens \u00e0 la force de leurs cuissauds. On se croise \u00e0 quelques jours d&rsquo;intervalle.. Dommage.<\/p>\n<p>Puis arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 Yerevan et enfin je retrouve Cl\u00e9m, qui \u00e9tait un peu d\u00e9contenanc\u00e9e en arrivant seule dans ce pays o\u00f9 elle ne comprend rien. D&rsquo;autant quand elle doit faire la \u00a0conversion en Euros, c&rsquo;est le DRAM! On endosse notre attirail de touriste pour d\u00e9ambuler dans les rues. Des centaines de bus s&rsquo;apparentant plut\u00f4t \u00e0 des camionnettes circulent. Pas de plan, ici on conna\u00eet les num\u00e9ros de ligne par coeur. On grimpe dans le bus 44, s&rsquo;assied comme on peut et fait passer la monnaie depuis l&rsquo;arri\u00e8re du bus au chauffeur.<\/p>\n<p><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-986\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6868.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"3872\" height=\"2592\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6868.jpg 3872w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6868-300x201.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6868-768x514.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6868-1024x685.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6868-403x270.jpg 403w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3872px) 100vw, 3872px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>En grimpant sur \u00ab\u00a0La cascade\u00a0\u00bb on surplombe cette ville tr\u00e8s empreinte de l&rsquo;union sovi\u00e9tique ; \u00e9difices de b\u00e9tons vieillis dont la restauration semble laborieuse.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-1026 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6870\/'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6870-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6891\/'><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6891-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6875\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6875-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>J&rsquo;ai quitt\u00e9 l&rsquo;Iran pour arriver le weekend de P\u00e2ques dans un pays, o\u00f9 la place du Christianisme est importante. Dans les \u00e9glises pleines, les femmes portent un voile pour aller prier.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-989\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6889.jpg\" alt=\"DSC_6889\" width=\"3872\" height=\"2592\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6889.jpg 3872w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6889-300x201.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6889-768x514.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6889-1024x685.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6889-403x270.jpg 403w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3872px) 100vw, 3872px\" \/><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-991\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6892.jpg\" alt=\"DSC_6892\" width=\"3872\" height=\"2592\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6892.jpg 3872w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6892-300x201.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6892-768x514.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6892-1024x685.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6892-403x270.jpg 403w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 3872px) 100vw, 3872px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Nous nous plongeons dans l&rsquo;histoire douloureuse du g\u00e9nocide arm\u00e9nien avec la visite du m\u00e9morial qui lui est d\u00e9di\u00e9. Le sujet sera souvent \u00e9voqu\u00e9 par les Arm\u00e9niens que l&rsquo;on rencontre, sans jamais aller dans les d\u00e9tails. Chacun a un proche qui a \u00e9migr\u00e9 en Europe suite aux \u00e9v\u00e9nements du d\u00e9but du si\u00e8cle dernier.<\/p>\n<p>On remonte nos b\u00e9canes, un guidon branle et on n&rsquo;a pas l&rsquo;outil adapt\u00e9. Heureusement au d\u00e9tour d&rsquo;une rue, on trouve un march\u00e9 de bric et de broc, o\u00f9 plusieurs stands de r\u00e9paration de v\u00e9lo s&rsquo;encha\u00eenent. Un papi\u00a0 vient \u00e0 la rescousse et le tour est jou\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-992\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020723.jpg\" alt=\"P1020723\" width=\"4896\" height=\"3672\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020723.jpg 4896w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020723-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020723-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020723-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020723-360x270.jpg 360w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 4896px) 100vw, 4896px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Nous donnons nos premiers coups de p\u00e9dale en direction de Garni. Sur une deux fois trois voies tr\u00e8s fr\u00e9quent\u00e9e, nous sommes pollu\u00e9es par ces voitures qui peinent \u00e0 grimper les 10 km pour sortir de la ville. Nous manquons de nous faire mordre par des chiens et nous faisons arr\u00eater par la police car nous conduisons \u00ab\u00a0dangereusement\u00a0\u00bb dans cette ville o\u00f9 il n&rsquo;existe pas de place aux v\u00e9los. Un comble !<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-993\" src=\"http:\/\/desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020727.jpg\" alt=\"P1020727\" width=\"4896\" height=\"3672\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020727.jpg 4896w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020727-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020727-768x576.jpg 768w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020727-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020727-360x270.jpg 360w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 4896px) 100vw, 4896px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Il m&rsquo;est difficile de me mettre dans l&rsquo;ambiance de ce voyage, je doute d&rsquo;avoir assez de force, d&rsquo;endurer un si long p\u00e9riple. Qui plus est, mon compteur nous indique une vitesse fausse (2 fois moindre! dur pour le moral) Puis en s&rsquo;\u00e9loignant petit \u00e0 petit de la circulation, en d\u00e9couvrant le calme des premiers paysages montagneux et apr\u00e8s une premi\u00e8re invitation \u00e0 boire un \u00ab\u00a0chai\u00a0\u00bb (th\u00e9, d\u00e9but d&rsquo;une longue s\u00e9rie) et d\u00e9guster des oeufs de P\u00e2ques, color\u00e9s \u00e0 la peau rouge de l&rsquo;oignon, le voyage reprend son sens.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-2' class='gallery galleryid-1026 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/p1020735\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020735-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6902\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6902-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6904\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6904-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Le lendemain nous prenons la direction du lac de Sevan. La r\u00e9gion est assez industrielle. De nombreuses maisons semblent abandonn\u00e9es ou am\u00e9nag\u00e9es avec le minimum vital. Souvent pas de rev\u00eatement ni aux murs ni au sol. Cela d\u00e9tonne par rapport \u00e0 la beaut\u00e9 de la nature. En longeant la rivi\u00e8re de la jolie vall\u00e9e du Kotayk, on d\u00e9couvre les belles montagnes arm\u00e9niennes. On passe des cols \u00e0 plus de 2000 m. La neige fond peu \u00e0 peu, la nature s&rsquo;\u00e9veille. Les bourgeons poussent \u00e7\u00e0 et l\u00e0. La v\u00e9g\u00e9tation s&rsquo;enrichit au fur et \u00e0 mesure que l&rsquo;on monte dans le nord.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-3' class='gallery galleryid-1026 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/p1020789\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020789-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/p1020785\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020785-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6907\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6907-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6921\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6921-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/p1020765\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020765-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6914\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6914-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6927\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6927-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6911\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6911-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Une voiture sur deux klaxonne pour encourager nos coups de p\u00e9dales, parfois m\u00eame la vitre teint\u00e9e se baisse, nous tendant un chocolat ou une boisson. On nous a m\u00eame tendu une corde pour nous tracter derri\u00e8re une voiture, proposition que nous d\u00e9clinons au vu de la conduite sportive de ce peuple ! Les enfants nous h\u00e8lent et nous poursuivent avec entrain et curiosit\u00e9. Sur les routes de nombreux hommes observent la circulation, triste t\u00e9moin d&rsquo;une situation \u00e9conomique difficile et d&rsquo;un fort taux de ch\u00f4mage. A notre passage, d\u00e9concert\u00e9s, ils r\u00e9pondent timidement \u00e0 nos \u00ab\u00a0Barev\u00a0\u00bb (Bonjour en Arm\u00e9nien).<\/p>\n<p>Le trafic sur les routes principales s&rsquo;apparente \u00e0 celui de d\u00e9partementales fran\u00e7aises. Nous slalomons sur ces routes trou\u00e9es, o\u00f9 les camions nous doublent difficilement dans les mont\u00e9es, surcharg\u00e9s de leurs bouteilles de gaz stock\u00e9es sur le toit ou le ch\u00e2ssis. Dans tous les villages, les conduites de gaz servent de glissi\u00e8re de s\u00e9curit\u00e9 explosive.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-4' class='gallery galleryid-1026 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6917\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6917-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/p1020779\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020779-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6931\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6931-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Souvent, du bord de la route, une main se tend et nous sommes invit\u00e9es \u00e0 prendre le th\u00e9, \u00e0 manger ou m\u00eame \u00e0 dormir dans ces maisons o\u00f9 trois ou quatre g\u00e9n\u00e9rations cohabitent. Apr\u00e8s le mariage la femme emm\u00e9nage chez sa belle famille. Parfois les salles d&rsquo;eau, chauff\u00e9es gr\u00e2ce au po\u00eale\/four, se situent dans le jardin ; la maison abritant alors seules les salles de nuit, froides et spartiates. La t\u00e9l\u00e9vision, le smartphone, internet et souvent un piano d\u00e9saccord\u00e9 contrastent avec la pr\u00e9carit\u00e9 des pi\u00e8ces \u00e0 vivre. Malgr\u00e9 ce, nous sommes toujours accueillies comme de reines. Les Arm\u00e9niens partagent avec nous toutes les denr\u00e9es de leur jardin et de leur basse-cour. Confitures de cynorhodon, d&rsquo;abricot, noix, oeufs, cr\u00e8me, fromage (au go\u00fbt de bouc assez prononc\u00e9 !), yaourt (Matsoun), herbes fra\u00eeches roul\u00e9es dans du pain (Lavash), fruits au sirop, th\u00e9 au jus de griotte..<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-5' class='gallery galleryid-1026 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6954\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6954-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/p1020773\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020773-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/p1020774\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020774-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6963\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6963-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/p1020804\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020804-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6979\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6979-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6998\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6998-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6910\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6910-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Pour discuter, il y a soit le copain au t\u00e9l\u00e9phone qui baragouine de l&rsquo;anglais, soit un bon dico de russe ou bien google translate. Comme Ben l&rsquo;a dit, c&rsquo;est parfois frustrant de ne pouvoir \u00e9changer autant qu&rsquo;on le voudrait. Mais ces rencontres restent toujours tr\u00e8s \u00e9mouvantes, car l&rsquo;envie de partager et de donner est plus forte que la barri\u00e8re de la langue.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-6' class='gallery galleryid-1026 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6970\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6970-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6968\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6968-e1493228865720-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6966\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6966-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/p1020784\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020784-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/p1020835\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/P1020835-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Nous d\u00e9cidons de changer d&rsquo;itin\u00e9raire pour \u00e9viter une balle perdue \u00e0 proximit\u00e9 de la fronti\u00e8re az\u00e9rie, zone de conflit due entre autres \u00e0 la revendication de certains territoires arm\u00e9niens par l&rsquo;Azerba\u00efdjan. Les panneaux nous indiquent qu&rsquo;on roule sur la route de la soie. C&rsquo;est paisible. Petite pause culturelle \u00e0 Vanadzor, o\u00f9 nous d\u00e9couvrons un aper\u00e7u de l&rsquo;art arm\u00e9nien. En poursuivant la route vers le Nord on passe devant ces fameux monast\u00e8res arm\u00e9niens (les Vank), savamment perch\u00e9es sur de vertes collines. Une longue vall\u00e9e engouffr\u00e9e sous d&rsquo;imposantes falaises nous conduit d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e0 la fronti\u00e8re g\u00e9orgienne. Suite au prochain \u00e9pisode..<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-7' class='gallery galleryid-1026 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6940\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6940-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/dsc_6941\/'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6941-e1493228903999-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Apr\u00e8s un au revoir \u00e9mouvant, je laisse les parents \u00e0 T\u00e9h\u00e9ran pour un d\u00e9part en bus direction Yerevan. 25 h de voyage, le v\u00e9lo rentre en soute moyennant une petite n\u00e9gociation de prix\/bakchich avec le chauffeur (bien aid\u00e9e par des Arm\u00e9niens qui ont le sens du commerce !).<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":1000,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,30],"tags":[32,21],"class_list":["post-1026","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-actu","category-armenie","tag-clem","tag-mara"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/04\/DSC_6913.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"post_mailing_queue_ids":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1026","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1026"}],"version-history":[{"count":57,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1026\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2246,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1026\/revisions\/2246"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1000"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1026"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1026"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.desbief.com\/SelleARouteIn\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1026"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}